Expert Review: Aber Falls – Definitely a Distillery to Watch
Our Wine and Spirits Expert Reviewer, Christopher Rogers, checks out Aber Falls Latest Whisky Release
Ah, Welsh whisky. It wasn’t that long ago when the word whisky meant a choice between Scottish or Irish (which is generally by tradition, spelt Whiskey) and then perhaps Japanese. England is developing a burgeoning whisky industry too, but I do feel that here in Wales, we are fortunate to be blessed with both long tradition and more recent trailblazers that have allowed this spirit to return.
Whisky has been made in Wales since the Middle Ages (for medicinal reasons, I’m sure. Nothing to do with a genuine need to warm up in a damp climate) but died out in the 19th Century. Happily, however, there are now over half a dozen distilleries in Wales making Single Malts and in 2023 Welsh whisky was finally granted its own geographical protection.
As a lifelong lover of whisky, I’ve been following the development of Welsh whisky with some enthusiasm over recent times. The fact that it generally has a lighter character appeals to me, especially in the Spring and Summer time when the heaver expressions of some Malts seem too much. Discovering Aber Falls for the first time was a boon in this respect and after trying it with enthusiasm in a Cardiff Restaurant, I felt bound to look a little more deeply into it.
The distillery itself (established in 2017) is located in North Wales and takes its name from the nearby waterfall called – wait for it – Aber Falls. As a good source of local spring water is vital for whisky production, this seems an eminently sensible idea, but the North Walian landscape is breathtaking, and the use of Welsh malted barley reinforces the pride taken in their sense of place.
The expression I tried – the Single Malt – has a real sense of its coastal location, delivering a light sense of the sea to compliment the heather honey and orange peel character. The colour is a pleasant orange-gold and is inviting on the nose, especially when opened up with a splash of spring water to allow the spirit to drop its shoulders a little and reveal the richness within.
On the palate the vanilla and spice combine well with the richer notes of dried fruits, honey and something of a leather/dark chocolate feel. Further sips allowed the spirit to develop and even in South Wales, sipping an admittedly enthusiastic measure whilst looking over the sea, it seemed entirely in keeping with the mood and landscape.
Quietly notching up a string of awards (Aber Falls Rye Whisky was awarded Silver in the 2024 IWSC Awards, Aber Falls 6 Year Old Single Cask Single Malt Whisky was awarded Bronze in the 2024 IWSC Awards while the Distillery was also awarded the Tourism Wales Quality Food and Drink 2023 Award) this is definitely a distillery to keep an eye on.
I look forward to charting their development and new releases as they grow and develop. Wales, I feel, is a good place to be for many reasons, and I have found yet another here.
About the author
Christopher Rogers brings nearly 30 years of experience in the wine and spirits industry.
Based in Wales, Chris is a holder of the WSET Diploma and an Associate of the Institute of Wine and Spirits, Chris is also a graduate and winner of L’Academie de Champagne and a Chevalier de l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne.
Chris is also the Founder of The Splendid Wine Agency, which represents a number of international brands in the UK.
